This is a friends 1.8 durotec ford mondeo mk3 estate on a 2001 plate with 150,000 miles on the clock.
he has reported that it is using over 1 litter of oil to less then 100 miles!!!.
no smoke when running but oil poring out of the exhaust.
ok first place we looked was the rings just to check but from the above info i am leaning towards valve stem seals...
compression across the 4 cylinders is 16 bar 230 psi (which is great ) so rings are fine.
so next is the task of stripping down the engine to replace the seals.
i wanted to have a look at the valves and the piston boars so we removed the head..
first pic is with most of the bits removed from the block and head including the cam chain cover and chain.
he has reported that it is using over 1 litter of oil to less then 100 miles!!!.
no smoke when running but oil poring out of the exhaust.
ok first place we looked was the rings just to check but from the above info i am leaning towards valve stem seals...
compression across the 4 cylinders is 16 bar 230 psi (which is great ) so rings are fine.
so next is the task of stripping down the engine to replace the seals.
i wanted to have a look at the valves and the piston boars so we removed the head..
first pic is with most of the bits removed from the block and head including the cam chain cover and chain.
next job yank the head out and start removing the valves and seals.
you can see loads of carbon build up on both the valves and the piston tops, also the valves have about 1mm play around the seals so these are defo the problem.
pics above show the new seals exhaust and inlet ready to be fitted.
and also why i wanted the head of to do this as i was worried about the carbon build up on the valves.
last pic of the inlet valves removed and ports cleaned.
and also why i wanted the head of to do this as i was worried about the carbon build up on the valves.
last pic of the inlet valves removed and ports cleaned.
above pic 1 . ok head cleaned with new valves and seals
pic 2. old seals ready for the bin.
pic3. head awaiting gasket set and new stretch bolts...
pic 2. old seals ready for the bin.
pic3. head awaiting gasket set and new stretch bolts...
Ok Mon 9th jan 2012 gaskit kit and all other parts have arrived so on with the show...
first pic above show the head refitted on the block with a new head gasket and pinched down with 10 new stretch bolts
second shows the exhaust manifold bolt back on again new gasket used
third pic inlet manifold bolted to the head inc new seals
second shows the exhaust manifold bolt back on again new gasket used
third pic inlet manifold bolted to the head inc new seals
pic 1 shows egr valve thermostat and dissy all bolted back on... yes new gaskets used
cams torqued down back on the head chain awaiting refitting
cams torqued down back on the head chain awaiting refitting
pic 1 shows cam chain, cam cover, idler pulley,crank pulley and engine mount all refitted.
down that gap still to fit water pump pully and aux belt. and to the right of the cam chain the power steering pump/pulley and reservoir bottle
pic 2 shows finished rebuild including all wire and pipe connections refitted ( looking good but very dirty)
down that gap still to fit water pump pully and aux belt. and to the right of the cam chain the power steering pump/pulley and reservoir bottle
pic 2 shows finished rebuild including all wire and pipe connections refitted ( looking good but very dirty)
Now its time to give the motor a service so first off we remove the oil filter and drain the oil. the water had been drained before we started so we could
remove the head.
but we left the oil in just so any muck that fell in now may be drained out...
pic 1 this is how we found the filter (not good and we had to remove the complete oil filter housing to get it out as the cap was seized solid)
so after new water, antifreeze, oil, oil filter, pollen filter, clutch/break fluid (needed bleeding), power steering fluid (again needed bleeding), spark plugs and a new battery. she was set for a test start
with the fuse for the fuel pump already removed ( from when i did the compression test) we turned her over a few times by hand and then by key.
fuse replaced and she fired and ran like a dream first turn of the key.
the last 4pics just show how the engine looked after a good clean and refitting of all the plastic bits.
remove the head.
but we left the oil in just so any muck that fell in now may be drained out...
pic 1 this is how we found the filter (not good and we had to remove the complete oil filter housing to get it out as the cap was seized solid)
so after new water, antifreeze, oil, oil filter, pollen filter, clutch/break fluid (needed bleeding), power steering fluid (again needed bleeding), spark plugs and a new battery. she was set for a test start
with the fuse for the fuel pump already removed ( from when i did the compression test) we turned her over a few times by hand and then by key.
fuse replaced and she fired and ran like a dream first turn of the key.
the last 4pics just show how the engine looked after a good clean and refitting of all the plastic bits.